Steve Mumford is an artist who has been making trips to Iraq for the past year (read my first post re: him). He publishes his thoughts and sketches in his Baghdad Journal on artnet.com. A recent email sent to friends was, I thought, interesting so I’m posting below with his permission.

Hi Everyone,

Yeah I’m back in Baghdad, hanging out with my Iraqi friends here. It’s awesome what different opinions they have about the situation from some of the journalists here, who are aghast when I ask them how they think things are going - that is, the journalists assume I share their view that the sky is falling. In contrast, my Iraqi friends (both Sunni and Shia) regard the Najaf episode as a triumph, both for Sistani and the Iraqi gov - and by association, the US - Sadr was essentially humiliated, resulting in a big loss of popularity in favor of moderate Sistani. The destruction of Najaf was grave, but reconstruction money is already flowing from the government, with most people apparently blaming Sadr, more than the US, for the damage.

Even in Falluja, my friends maintain, the majority want peace and stability and are willing to join the government, but for the time being are scared into silence by the jihadists. However, talks are going on between Allawi and the tribes of Falluja. They’re optimistic that this will all be reflected in the coming elections.

So, who knows - I can say that I feel some journalists I’ve met are so blinded by their hatred for Bush and recent US foreign policy that they clearly want this to become a massive failure. It’s certainly hard to find Iraqis who will openly compliment the US at this point, for a variety of understandable reasons. But crucially, this doesn’t mean that they are lending their support to the insurgents. In fact, my friends maintain, just the opposite.

As usual, Baghdad is surreal in it’s normalcy amid explosions - you hear them almost everyday, yet the Iraqis barely turn their heads and go about their business. I use caution traveling about, generally with my friends, but I’m not holed up in my hotel either. The local art world continues apace, with the usual salons held every Monday at the Hewar Gallery and the Shebander Tea House, internet cafes filled, the streets bustling, everyone eagerly anticipating the cooler days of Fall.

I was saddened to find that Nezar, a haircutter on old Rashid Street, who gave me 2 haircuts, was killed along with his nephew by a car bomb parked right outside his shop, about 3 weeks ago. He was a sweet guy who wouldn’t take my money the first time, and was a friend of my friend the artist Ahmed al Safi. His blackened, ruined store is still there, with traditional Shia obituary flags draped over the storefront.

Baqubah remained relatively peaceful for the remainder of the time I was there. Rumors of an impending insurgency keep circulating but have yet to materialize. The police and Iraqi National Guard are gaining strength and confidence with better training, heavier weapons and flack vests. In spite of recent conspicuous failures, they’re getting better. They’re starting - in baby steps - to stand up to insurgent attacks. You see them everywhere in Baqubah and Baghdad, whizzing around in new cars and SUVs with the Iraqi Police insignia on the side. I can’t overstate the importance of this to Iraqis. You can’t have a democracy or even an economy without security.

I’ll remain here a bit longer, replenish art supplies, and try for another embedding for a couple of weeks, then return home.

Please, everyone, try to keep an open mind about things over here - Muqtada Sadr is NOT Che Guevara! Bremmer fucked some things up very badly, but somehow, Iraqis are optimistic that the situation is improving.

Love, Steve

I’ve been critical of Steve’s project in the past (but always giving respect). Reading some actual on-the-ground info from a friend is interesting but I have to ask: If his Iraqi friends think things are getting better, better than what? All out war? Normalcy and explosions? Your barber got killed in a car bombing! What is this better than?

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